Bucharest, which started modernizing in the second half of the 19th century, has very few buildings left that were built more than 200 years ago
Bucharest, which started modernizing in the second half of the 19th century, has very few buildings left that were built more than 200 years ago. A few date back to the early 19th century, such as Sutu Palace, which hosts the Bucharest Museum, built in 1830, but also Ghica Palace on the shore of Tei Lake. The latter was built in 1822 in a region that is now the eastern side of the city, but which used to be on the outskirts of the town when the palace was built by Grigore Ghica IV the very year he ascended the throne. He was the first ruler from a Romanian noble family after the Phanariote period.
For over a century, rulers of the Romanian principalities, Moldavia and Wallachia, had been selected by Ottoman sultans from among the Greek families inhabiting the Phanar area of Istanbul. The Phanariote period ended with Tudor Vladimirescu's Revolution of 1821. The Ottoman Porte appointed Grigore Ghica IV ruler of Wallachia. He was a member of an old Romanian family, with Albanian roots, which had provided rulers of the principalities before. One of the first things the new ruler did was to continue work at his residence outside the capital, built in Western style, one of the first of this kind in the area.
Historian Dan Falcan has more:
"Even before he took office, in September 1822, he had ordered work to begin on this edifice, Ghica-Tei Palace, a beautiful edifice in early 19th century Neo-Classical style. It also has element typical of the Renaissance, such as friezes and sculptures. The interior was painted by Italian artist Giacometti, famous in his time. His creations have withstood the vicissitudes of time, and have been preserved to this day. This was not the official palace of the ruler, it was his residence. The architect is not known any more, we only know who did the interior painting. It is supposed that the architect was foreign, because at that time Romania did not have architects. It was only after this time that Romanians started going abroad to study architecture."
The one-storied building is longer than it is tall. It lies at the middle of a huge park on the shore of Tei Lake. In 1833, Ghica Tei Church was erected next to the palace. It was initially a simple palace chapel, but it was expanded. Also as a first for its time, the architecture was also in Western style. Its round shape and its Italian Neo-Classical style is a break with the Byzantine tradition. However, this is not the only building that stands out in the ensemble of the Ghica-Tei Palace.
Dan Falcan used to do archeology work here in the 1970s and 1980s:
"This palace was not built on empty terrain. Another noble house used to be there. Back in the 17th century, it is possible that it belonged to ruler Matei Basarab. Across the lake from the palace we have Plumbuita Monastery, financed by Matei Basarab. There is a tunnel running under the lake between the monastery and the terrain where Ghica Palace was built. The tunnel can no longer be crossed completely, parts of it collapsed, which is understandable after earthquakes, fires, and various infrastructure works. This tunnel dates to the time of ruler Matei Basarab, in the first half of the 17th century. It was definitely not dug in Grigore Ghica's time. He may have thought he would need it, considering the murky situation after Tudor Vladimirescu's revolution. However, the situation was even murkier in the time of Matei Basarab. You could always wake up to see the city full of Ottoman troops, and when that happened, the tunnel could have saved your life, taking you to the shelter of Plumbuita Monastery."
As the ruler of Wallachia between 1822 and 1828, Grigore Ghica IV was tasked with setting up a Romanian administration after more than a century of Phanariote rule.
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